Post by kEnwaR on Oct 26, 2008 5:43:21 GMT 8
For an AEG rifle
_____________________________________________
What parts can be upgraded in your AEG? In a normal AEG many parts can be changed or upgraded. Here is a list of them and what they do.
Hop Up Bucking is the part that puts back spin on the bb. Systema, Guarder, Prometheus and Fire Fly are the best. Fire Fly makes a special one with 3 nubs in the bottom to create a better spin.
Hop Up Chamber. The Hop Up Chamber can be changed for more consistency. The stock plastic ones are ok but are not as good as ones made by Systema. King arms and Prometheus are said to be the best.
Barrel. Some people change to barrels longer or tighter than their stock ones. The tighter the barrel the better. Don't get one too tight if you use bad quality BBs or it will jam. Most AEGs come stock with 6.08mm diameter barrels. Systema make 6.04mm, Star make 6.05mm, Guarder make 6.04mm, Prometheus make 6.03mm, Deepfire makes 6.04mm, Madbull makes 6.03mm, KM makes 6.04 with a special TN coating, which increases the FPS by 10+-, Dees Custom make 6.01mm, and PDI the best make 6.01mm from steel.
Spring. The stronger your spring, the higher the velocity the piston can be forced forward at. Don't fit a high powered spring with standard internals as you are likely to damage the gears or piston. Guarder and PDI springs are best. Systema can crack easily but prometheus is also good, although their "unique" coloring wears off after a while, damaging your gears. Most springs besides PDI are rated in metres per second, so a M100 spring is 100 metres per second or 328 feet per second.
Spring Guide. This stops the spring from jumping into the gear case. Guarder, Systema and Prometheus make steel ones. If it has spacers it will increase your muzzle velocity.
Cylinder. The cylinder is the area in which the air is compressed before being forced down the barrel. Bigger cylinders let you use a longer barrel. You can also get telfon-coated cylinders which will give a slight increase of Rate Of Fire (ROF), to my knowledge about 100 rounds per minute. This part isn't upgraded much as most guns come with good ones. For a budget gun one get a teflon coated Area 1000 cylinder.
Cylinder Head. Changing this part will either silence your gun (if you get a Systema or Angel damped head) or give a better air seal.
Air Nozzle. The air nozzle is the part that pushes the bb into the Hop Up Chamber. It is also needed to seal the airflow from the cylinder head to the BB, so some have internal 'O' rings like Guarder.
Piston. The piston compresses the air in the cylinder. It is essentially a flat-toothed gear. It is wound back by the motor and then forced forward at high speed by the spring, compressing the air in front of it. It therefore is subject to tremendous pressure. Metal pistons are good for Semi-Auto AEGs but if fired in Full Auto they may strip the gears. G&P, Guarder,and Deep Fire make good ones. Prometheus is OK with some mods. The Super Hard Core Piston is probably the best of all, but is hard to find outside Japan.
Piston Head. The piston head seals the air into the cylinder. You can get good and bad ones. Classic Army and most clones generally have poor piston heads. You can also get silent ones to quiet your gun and bearing ones to increase the muzzle velocity. G&P, Systema, and Prometheus make good ones.
Gears. The gears are a very important and expensive part of the rifle. Don't be tempted to buy cheap gears, as you will probably end up paying a lot more to fix the gearbox when they break. If you are upgrading to high powered springs or hi-speed/torque motors opt for steel gears. If you want high ROF you can buy high speed gears from Prometheus, Systema and Guarder. Systema, Guarder and Prometheus make high torque as well. Most of these are helical which means the teeth are at an angle. If you use these you need a half toothed piston. They are also harder to shim correctly. You have 3 gears, the sector, bevel and spur gears.
Bushings. The bushes keep the gears in places and are what the gears rotate on. If they break the gears will probably strip. The bigger the bushing the better. Most guns ship with plastic 6mm bushes fitted. If you upgrade go for metal bushes and if you are looking for higher ROF or torque, get a new gearbox casing that will take 7mm or 8mm bushes.
Shims. The shims are used to keep the gears aligned and correctly meshing. Incorrect shimming will lead to increased gear wear or failure.
Tappet plate. The tappet plate pulls the air nozzle back to let the BB in. If it snaps your gun will not feed. TM stock and ANGEL are the best. An Chinese brand called World-Element also makes decent ones for a good price.
Selector Plate. This part rarely breaks. It can be upgraded for more electrical stability.
Anti-Reversal Latch. This latch stops the gears from spinning backwards and damaging the gun. Systema and Prometheus make aftermarket versions.
Cut Off Lever. This stops the gears so you can fire Semi-Auto. If it does break or wear you will only have Automatic fire.
Trigger mechanism. If you fire too much on Full Auto the mechanism can burn out and your gun will cease to fire. Systema and Guarder make aftermarket versions. Keep the contacts clean to avoid short-circuits.
Sector Chip. Guns don't come stock with these but they essentially keep the tappet plate back longer so the BBs feed better. They have no negative side effects and will not break.
Motor. You can opt for hi-speed or torque. Don't put a hugely powerful motor in a standard gun and hope it will work. You will strip the gears or piston. The Systema Magnum and Turbo are excellent. The G&P M120 and M160 are great as well.
Battery. The higher the voltage, the higher your ROF will be. The higher the Milliampere-Hour rating (mAH), the more BBs you can fire per charge (as a rule of thumb for a fairly standard gun, 1 mAH = 1 shot). Intellect, G&P, Sanyo and Elite are great. Most chinese guns come with poor batteries. Do not go for the highest power battery you can find straight away, as the voltage may be too high for your current setup and may damage components. Search the net and airsoft forums for advice on battery selection. 12volt= INSANE performance. Many guns even upgraded cannot handle these batteries. KWA KM4A1 can handle a 16volt battery... but the BB's hit eachother in the barrel.
For bolt action rifle
______________________________________________
Barrel. The tighter the barrel the better your accuracy and consistency will be. PDI, Laylax and Dees Custom make them. Marui also makes a precision barrel and chamber set which is quite good.
Hop Up Rubber. The Hop Up Rubber gives the BB back-spin increasing the range and accuracy. GET A GOOD ONE. Nine Ball and FireFly make good ones.
Piston. The piston compresses the air in the cylinder. Some have air brakes which silence the gun but this reduces the power. The lighter and stronger your piston the better.
Spring. The stronger the spring, the faster the piston is forced forward, and the higher the muzzle velocity. Get a good quality one. Laylax make great ones.
Hop Up Chamber. Most clone and chinese guns come with poor chambers. Getting a good one will greatly improve accuracy. The Marui precision one for the VSR-10 is excellent.
Piston head. The piston head forces the air into the barrel, propelling your BB. For the VSR-10, PDI and Laylax make good ones.
Spring Guide. This stops the spring from jumping about. Most guns come with plastic ones. Get a metal one and it will last longer.
Cylinder. If you get a teflon or polished cylinder you will have a easier bolt pull. Teflon on your cylinder means you don't need to lube it.
Bolt Handle. If you have a big bolt handle it will be easier to thingy your gun. Guarder makes them for the L96 and APS2. PSS10 makes them for the VSR-10.
Trigger seat. Don't be tempted to get a cheap trigger seat. If you fit a very strong spring change your trigger seat. It keeps the gun thingyed. If it breaks your gun will not thingy.
Piston seat. Catches the piston and is supported by the trigger seat. Has a lot less strain put on it than the trigger seat.
Spring Guide Stopper. Keeps the cylinder in place. You should also upgrade this when increasing the muzzle velocity.
Trigger mechanism. The best triggers are zero trigger. They require only a light trigger pull and are very strong. Comes with a spring guide stopper, piston seat and trigger seat.
How to upgrade
______________________________________________
This section explains how to upgrade a stock AEG. The authors take no responsibilty for any damage to you gun caused by following these instructions. You do so at your own risk!
Required Parts
328 fps - M100 or SP85-SP90 spring, steel bushings (any 6mm will do) and Systema shims.
400 fps - Many people say you don't need new gears but I think you do. M120 spring, steel bushings, Systema shims, Guarder steel spring guide and Guarder steel gears.
450 fps - G&P piston, Systema shims, Guarder steel spring guide, Guarder steel gears, steel bushings, G&P piston head.
500 fps - You essentialy have a sniper rifle. You will want a longer barrel (509mm) and something to house it, Fire Fly hop up bucking hard, half tooth piston, Systema shims, Guarder steel spring guide, Prometheus torque up helical gears, G&P piston head, Systema Magnum motor, Area 1000 Type 0 teflon cylinder, Guarder cylinder head, Guarder air nozzle, 7mm mech box case, 7mm bushing.
I do not recommend you go any to a higher velocity. You should also opt for 9.6v or 10.8v battery
Opening an M-series gun
_______________________________________________
Understand that the M-series refers to the M4 A1, M733, M4CQBR, M933 and the M4 s-system.
Remove the magazine. Fire your gun 3 times in Semi-Auto upside down to ensure there are no BBs in the chamber. Remove the battery.
Remove the stock. If it is a full stock just remove the 2 screws on the butt plate and it should come off right away. If it is a folding stock you need to remove the sliding part. To do this pull down on the lever and slide it off. Then remove the hex screw on the bottom of the plate and take the cap off Unscrew the screw on the inside with a long philips head screw driver.
Remove the back pin on the reciever and pull the reciever apart (this will require force). Don't break the taps. Now remove the front pin and pull everything apart. Apply a small amount of grease to the tabs for easier opening.
Remove the magazine release by unscrewing it and pushing it through. Reassemble the magazine release out side of the gun to aviod losing any parts.
Pull out the pin in the middle of the receiver.
Remove the plate on the bottom of the pistol grip by unscrewing two small screws.
Slowly lift it off.
If there is a metal disc on the motor continue with the next step.
If not, remove the 2 wires connecting the motor to the gun and simply yank it out with pliers. If you couldn't find the metal disc on top it will be on the motor because it is a magnet. Put the disc on the motor plate.
Remove the 2 small screws on the base. This is really difficult to do so just keep trying.
Pull out your gear box and, if you want to, put it all back together.
How to change the barrel, hop up rubber or hop up unit
_______________________________________________
Split the receiver by removing the back pin then pulling it apart.
Remove the front pin and separate the lower receiver from the upper receiver.
Pull out the barrel and hop up unit.
You will find a small spring on the hop up unit. If you don't, look around that area and shake it until you find it.
Remove the plate attached to the hop up unit by pulling it off. Pull out the barrel and hop up rubber.
Now you can change any of the parts you want.
How to open a Version 2 gear box and upgrade your gun to about 450 fps.
________________________________________________
Gather the following:
Systema or other airsoft brand shims.
6mm bushes.
A spring rated for 450fps. (check Victor's Spring Guide)
Airsoft grease (not car grease!). Lithium grease or G&P grease.
Philips head screw driver set
Torx screw driver set
Remove the V2 gearbox from your gun.
If there is a wire guide on the front of your gearbox directing the wires to the front, remove it with a screw driver.
Remove all the torque and hex screws from the shell.
Put a screw driver in the back of the gearbox through the spring guide and put pressure on it whilst you pull open the case.
If, when you open the shell the spring guide jumps out at you, remove the spring and spring guide as well as the piston.
Remove the gears and the anti-reversal latch. It doesn't matter if anything falls off like the bushes and shims, just not the teeth! (he..he.. That would only happen if gears were broken).
Remove the stock bushes and put your new ones in. Make sure they're a tight fit.
Shim the gears. Make sure the gears are correctly aligned and rotate well but don't move when you close the case. Put your gears and the anti-reversal latch back in place.
Remove your piston, spring and piston head.
Remove the piston head by unscrewing it with a rag and pliers.
Put your new spring in and re-attach the piston head.
Reinstall everything. Shut the gearbox . This will require a bit of effort but you'll get there eventualy. Put it in your gun and enjoy!
_____________________________________________
What parts can be upgraded in your AEG? In a normal AEG many parts can be changed or upgraded. Here is a list of them and what they do.
Hop Up Bucking is the part that puts back spin on the bb. Systema, Guarder, Prometheus and Fire Fly are the best. Fire Fly makes a special one with 3 nubs in the bottom to create a better spin.
Hop Up Chamber. The Hop Up Chamber can be changed for more consistency. The stock plastic ones are ok but are not as good as ones made by Systema. King arms and Prometheus are said to be the best.
Barrel. Some people change to barrels longer or tighter than their stock ones. The tighter the barrel the better. Don't get one too tight if you use bad quality BBs or it will jam. Most AEGs come stock with 6.08mm diameter barrels. Systema make 6.04mm, Star make 6.05mm, Guarder make 6.04mm, Prometheus make 6.03mm, Deepfire makes 6.04mm, Madbull makes 6.03mm, KM makes 6.04 with a special TN coating, which increases the FPS by 10+-, Dees Custom make 6.01mm, and PDI the best make 6.01mm from steel.
Spring. The stronger your spring, the higher the velocity the piston can be forced forward at. Don't fit a high powered spring with standard internals as you are likely to damage the gears or piston. Guarder and PDI springs are best. Systema can crack easily but prometheus is also good, although their "unique" coloring wears off after a while, damaging your gears. Most springs besides PDI are rated in metres per second, so a M100 spring is 100 metres per second or 328 feet per second.
Spring Guide. This stops the spring from jumping into the gear case. Guarder, Systema and Prometheus make steel ones. If it has spacers it will increase your muzzle velocity.
Cylinder. The cylinder is the area in which the air is compressed before being forced down the barrel. Bigger cylinders let you use a longer barrel. You can also get telfon-coated cylinders which will give a slight increase of Rate Of Fire (ROF), to my knowledge about 100 rounds per minute. This part isn't upgraded much as most guns come with good ones. For a budget gun one get a teflon coated Area 1000 cylinder.
Cylinder Head. Changing this part will either silence your gun (if you get a Systema or Angel damped head) or give a better air seal.
Air Nozzle. The air nozzle is the part that pushes the bb into the Hop Up Chamber. It is also needed to seal the airflow from the cylinder head to the BB, so some have internal 'O' rings like Guarder.
Piston. The piston compresses the air in the cylinder. It is essentially a flat-toothed gear. It is wound back by the motor and then forced forward at high speed by the spring, compressing the air in front of it. It therefore is subject to tremendous pressure. Metal pistons are good for Semi-Auto AEGs but if fired in Full Auto they may strip the gears. G&P, Guarder,and Deep Fire make good ones. Prometheus is OK with some mods. The Super Hard Core Piston is probably the best of all, but is hard to find outside Japan.
Piston Head. The piston head seals the air into the cylinder. You can get good and bad ones. Classic Army and most clones generally have poor piston heads. You can also get silent ones to quiet your gun and bearing ones to increase the muzzle velocity. G&P, Systema, and Prometheus make good ones.
Gears. The gears are a very important and expensive part of the rifle. Don't be tempted to buy cheap gears, as you will probably end up paying a lot more to fix the gearbox when they break. If you are upgrading to high powered springs or hi-speed/torque motors opt for steel gears. If you want high ROF you can buy high speed gears from Prometheus, Systema and Guarder. Systema, Guarder and Prometheus make high torque as well. Most of these are helical which means the teeth are at an angle. If you use these you need a half toothed piston. They are also harder to shim correctly. You have 3 gears, the sector, bevel and spur gears.
Bushings. The bushes keep the gears in places and are what the gears rotate on. If they break the gears will probably strip. The bigger the bushing the better. Most guns ship with plastic 6mm bushes fitted. If you upgrade go for metal bushes and if you are looking for higher ROF or torque, get a new gearbox casing that will take 7mm or 8mm bushes.
Shims. The shims are used to keep the gears aligned and correctly meshing. Incorrect shimming will lead to increased gear wear or failure.
Tappet plate. The tappet plate pulls the air nozzle back to let the BB in. If it snaps your gun will not feed. TM stock and ANGEL are the best. An Chinese brand called World-Element also makes decent ones for a good price.
Selector Plate. This part rarely breaks. It can be upgraded for more electrical stability.
Anti-Reversal Latch. This latch stops the gears from spinning backwards and damaging the gun. Systema and Prometheus make aftermarket versions.
Cut Off Lever. This stops the gears so you can fire Semi-Auto. If it does break or wear you will only have Automatic fire.
Trigger mechanism. If you fire too much on Full Auto the mechanism can burn out and your gun will cease to fire. Systema and Guarder make aftermarket versions. Keep the contacts clean to avoid short-circuits.
Sector Chip. Guns don't come stock with these but they essentially keep the tappet plate back longer so the BBs feed better. They have no negative side effects and will not break.
Motor. You can opt for hi-speed or torque. Don't put a hugely powerful motor in a standard gun and hope it will work. You will strip the gears or piston. The Systema Magnum and Turbo are excellent. The G&P M120 and M160 are great as well.
Battery. The higher the voltage, the higher your ROF will be. The higher the Milliampere-Hour rating (mAH), the more BBs you can fire per charge (as a rule of thumb for a fairly standard gun, 1 mAH = 1 shot). Intellect, G&P, Sanyo and Elite are great. Most chinese guns come with poor batteries. Do not go for the highest power battery you can find straight away, as the voltage may be too high for your current setup and may damage components. Search the net and airsoft forums for advice on battery selection. 12volt= INSANE performance. Many guns even upgraded cannot handle these batteries. KWA KM4A1 can handle a 16volt battery... but the BB's hit eachother in the barrel.
For bolt action rifle
______________________________________________
Barrel. The tighter the barrel the better your accuracy and consistency will be. PDI, Laylax and Dees Custom make them. Marui also makes a precision barrel and chamber set which is quite good.
Hop Up Rubber. The Hop Up Rubber gives the BB back-spin increasing the range and accuracy. GET A GOOD ONE. Nine Ball and FireFly make good ones.
Piston. The piston compresses the air in the cylinder. Some have air brakes which silence the gun but this reduces the power. The lighter and stronger your piston the better.
Spring. The stronger the spring, the faster the piston is forced forward, and the higher the muzzle velocity. Get a good quality one. Laylax make great ones.
Hop Up Chamber. Most clone and chinese guns come with poor chambers. Getting a good one will greatly improve accuracy. The Marui precision one for the VSR-10 is excellent.
Piston head. The piston head forces the air into the barrel, propelling your BB. For the VSR-10, PDI and Laylax make good ones.
Spring Guide. This stops the spring from jumping about. Most guns come with plastic ones. Get a metal one and it will last longer.
Cylinder. If you get a teflon or polished cylinder you will have a easier bolt pull. Teflon on your cylinder means you don't need to lube it.
Bolt Handle. If you have a big bolt handle it will be easier to thingy your gun. Guarder makes them for the L96 and APS2. PSS10 makes them for the VSR-10.
Trigger seat. Don't be tempted to get a cheap trigger seat. If you fit a very strong spring change your trigger seat. It keeps the gun thingyed. If it breaks your gun will not thingy.
Piston seat. Catches the piston and is supported by the trigger seat. Has a lot less strain put on it than the trigger seat.
Spring Guide Stopper. Keeps the cylinder in place. You should also upgrade this when increasing the muzzle velocity.
Trigger mechanism. The best triggers are zero trigger. They require only a light trigger pull and are very strong. Comes with a spring guide stopper, piston seat and trigger seat.
How to upgrade
______________________________________________
This section explains how to upgrade a stock AEG. The authors take no responsibilty for any damage to you gun caused by following these instructions. You do so at your own risk!
Required Parts
328 fps - M100 or SP85-SP90 spring, steel bushings (any 6mm will do) and Systema shims.
400 fps - Many people say you don't need new gears but I think you do. M120 spring, steel bushings, Systema shims, Guarder steel spring guide and Guarder steel gears.
450 fps - G&P piston, Systema shims, Guarder steel spring guide, Guarder steel gears, steel bushings, G&P piston head.
500 fps - You essentialy have a sniper rifle. You will want a longer barrel (509mm) and something to house it, Fire Fly hop up bucking hard, half tooth piston, Systema shims, Guarder steel spring guide, Prometheus torque up helical gears, G&P piston head, Systema Magnum motor, Area 1000 Type 0 teflon cylinder, Guarder cylinder head, Guarder air nozzle, 7mm mech box case, 7mm bushing.
I do not recommend you go any to a higher velocity. You should also opt for 9.6v or 10.8v battery
Opening an M-series gun
_______________________________________________
Understand that the M-series refers to the M4 A1, M733, M4CQBR, M933 and the M4 s-system.
Remove the magazine. Fire your gun 3 times in Semi-Auto upside down to ensure there are no BBs in the chamber. Remove the battery.
Remove the stock. If it is a full stock just remove the 2 screws on the butt plate and it should come off right away. If it is a folding stock you need to remove the sliding part. To do this pull down on the lever and slide it off. Then remove the hex screw on the bottom of the plate and take the cap off Unscrew the screw on the inside with a long philips head screw driver.
Remove the back pin on the reciever and pull the reciever apart (this will require force). Don't break the taps. Now remove the front pin and pull everything apart. Apply a small amount of grease to the tabs for easier opening.
Remove the magazine release by unscrewing it and pushing it through. Reassemble the magazine release out side of the gun to aviod losing any parts.
Pull out the pin in the middle of the receiver.
Remove the plate on the bottom of the pistol grip by unscrewing two small screws.
Slowly lift it off.
If there is a metal disc on the motor continue with the next step.
If not, remove the 2 wires connecting the motor to the gun and simply yank it out with pliers. If you couldn't find the metal disc on top it will be on the motor because it is a magnet. Put the disc on the motor plate.
Remove the 2 small screws on the base. This is really difficult to do so just keep trying.
Pull out your gear box and, if you want to, put it all back together.
How to change the barrel, hop up rubber or hop up unit
_______________________________________________
Split the receiver by removing the back pin then pulling it apart.
Remove the front pin and separate the lower receiver from the upper receiver.
Pull out the barrel and hop up unit.
You will find a small spring on the hop up unit. If you don't, look around that area and shake it until you find it.
Remove the plate attached to the hop up unit by pulling it off. Pull out the barrel and hop up rubber.
Now you can change any of the parts you want.
How to open a Version 2 gear box and upgrade your gun to about 450 fps.
________________________________________________
Gather the following:
Systema or other airsoft brand shims.
6mm bushes.
A spring rated for 450fps. (check Victor's Spring Guide)
Airsoft grease (not car grease!). Lithium grease or G&P grease.
Philips head screw driver set
Torx screw driver set
Remove the V2 gearbox from your gun.
If there is a wire guide on the front of your gearbox directing the wires to the front, remove it with a screw driver.
Remove all the torque and hex screws from the shell.
Put a screw driver in the back of the gearbox through the spring guide and put pressure on it whilst you pull open the case.
If, when you open the shell the spring guide jumps out at you, remove the spring and spring guide as well as the piston.
Remove the gears and the anti-reversal latch. It doesn't matter if anything falls off like the bushes and shims, just not the teeth! (he..he.. That would only happen if gears were broken).
Remove the stock bushes and put your new ones in. Make sure they're a tight fit.
Shim the gears. Make sure the gears are correctly aligned and rotate well but don't move when you close the case. Put your gears and the anti-reversal latch back in place.
Remove your piston, spring and piston head.
Remove the piston head by unscrewing it with a rag and pliers.
Put your new spring in and re-attach the piston head.
Reinstall everything. Shut the gearbox . This will require a bit of effort but you'll get there eventualy. Put it in your gun and enjoy!
